Manchester United

Old Trafford is the biggest club ground in the country and it still fills up. Seventy-four and a half thousand seats, give or take, and the atmosphere depends entirely on who’s visiting and what’s at stake. League Cup group stage against a League Two side? Flat. A European night under the lights with something on the line? There’s nowhere better. The ground has its problems – the roof leaks, the concourses are cramped, some of the facilities place’t been touched since the 90s – but when it’s rocking, none of that matters.

Getting there is straightforward. The Metrolink tram drops you at Old Trafford stop on the Altrincham line, about a ten-minute walk from the ground along Warwick Road. From the city centre it’s a fifteen-minute ride. By car, forget it on matchday unless you’ve sorted parking well in advance. The streets around Trafford are gridlocked from two hours before kickoff.

Pre-match drinking is a ritual. Sam Platts on the concourse is the old faithful – cheap pints, packed solid, zero pretension. The Bishop Blaize on Chester Road fills up early and has been a matchday pub for decades. Hotel Football opposite the ground does a more upmarket setup if you want to watch the buildup on screens with a burger. The Trafford on Chester Road is another solid shout.

Tickets are harder than they used to be for big games but not impossible. Membership gets you access to general sale for most Premier League fixtures. The away end at the east side of the Stretford End is always loud. For atmosphere, aim for the Stretford End lower tier – it’s the closest thing United have to a standing section. The corporate seats at midfield are a different experience entirely, and not always in a good way.

Whatever you think of the Glazers, the ownership drama, the transfer sagas – Old Trafford on a big night is still one of the great experiences in English football. The ground needs a serious rebuild and everyone knows it. But until that happens, it remains the Theatre of Dreams, leaky roof and all.