Erst

Erst is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant every area wishes it had. Sitting on Cutting Room Square in Ancoats, it does two things exceptionally well: seasonal food and natural wine. The menu changes regularly based on what’s available, which keeps things fresh and means the kitchen is always working with the best produce they can get. Small plates are designed for sharing and the flavours are confident without being overcomplicated. Expect things like burrata with roasted stone fruit, lamb shoulder with anchovy, or a perfectly simple plate of cured fish.

The wine list is a natural wine lover’s dream – interesting, well-well-chosen, and the staff are brilliant at recommending bottles without being snobby about it. Weekend brunch is outstanding and has become one of the best in the city. The space is cosy and modern with big windows looking out onto the square, and in summer the outdoor seating is unbeatable. Erst feels effortless in the way that only places run by people who genuinely know what they’re doing can manage. It’s a cornerstone of the Ancoats food scene.