Canto

Canto brought something Manchester didn’t really have – proper Portuguese-inspired cooking in a small plates format, backed by one of the best natural wine lists in the city. Tucked onto Out Lane in Ancoats, it’s a small room with a big reputation. The charcoal grill is the heart of the kitchen and you can taste it in everything that comes off it – smoky, charred, with that depth of flavour you only get from live fire cooking.

The menu is built for sharing. Plates come out when they’re ready, not in some rigid order. Expect things like grilled sardines, pork presa, croquettes, and whatever seasonal vegetable they’ve decided to do something brilliant with that week. The custard tart (pastel de nata) is the correct way to finish. Everything is driven by quality produce rather than clever technique for its own sake.

The Wine

This is where Canto really stands out. The wine list is almost entirely natural and biodynamic, heavy on Portuguese and Spanish producers you won’t find elsewhere in Manchester. Staff know the list inside out and will steer you well. Expect to spend thirty to fifty quid a head on food, more if you get into the wine. The room is intimate – maybe thirty covers – so booking is essential. One of Ancoats’ best.